The cloth
Bogolanfini begins as hand-woven cotton strip cloth, joined selvedge to selvedge before it ever meets the dye. It is dyed with a n'gallama leaf bath, then river-mud fermentation over three passes — the pattern is not printed on, it is drawn in mud and then the ground around it is lifted away. On this piece the mudcloth meets black technical cotton-linen with a soft lustre, vertical bogolan mudcloth centre band and cuff facings, fine gold cord embroidery beside the placket, discreet gold-tone z at the cuff.
