The cloth
Bogolanfini begins as hand-woven cotton strip cloth, joined selvedge to selvedge before it ever meets the dye. It is dyed with a double n'gallama bath with a lime-brightened reserve for the pale ground — the pattern is not printed on, it is drawn in mud and then the ground around it is lifted away. On this piece the mudcloth meets burgundy wool-crepe, canvassed jacket front, black-and-gold bogolan mudcloth collar, waist panel, cuffs and dress side panel, cupro lining, gold-tone z buttons.
